Sewing with Velvet: What to Know Before You Cut

Velvet looks luxurious, feels expensive, and behaves like it has a mind of its own. If you’ve ever tried to sew it, you already know: it can slip, shift, stretch, and test your patience. But the results? Worth it.

I’ve sewn several items in velvet. Pants, dusters, skirts, and dresses, with skirts being my favorite because they’re so easy to whip up. I tend to sew with the poly blend, mainly due to cost.

Let’s break it down, because not all velvet is created equal. Silk velvet and polyester velvet each have their quirks, and knowing how to handle them will save you from frustration (and a few choice words).

Silk Velvet: Beautiful, But Temperamental

Think of silk velvet as that friend who’s stunning but high-maintenance. It’s soft, fluid, and moves like liquid, but it bruises easily, press it too hard and you’ll crush the nap.

A few key tips:

Cut one layer at a time. The pile makes layers slide against each other. Lay it flat, use a rotary cutter, and take your time.
Pin sparingly (or not at all). Pins can leave permanent holes. Try pattern weights or clips instead.
Baste everything. Hand-basting might feel old-school, but it’s the only way to keep seams from creeping.
Press with caution. Hover your iron and use steam but don’t touch the surface. Or press from the wrong side with a thick towel underneath or a special protective sheet used especially for velvet fabrics to protect the nap.
Line it. Silk velvet drapes beautifully but can distort with wear. A lightweight lining gives it structure and longevity.

Sewing silk velvet is slow work. But when you finish, you’ll understand why couture designers swear by it.

Polyester Velvet: The Easier (and Cheaper) Cousin

Poly velvet is sturdier, more affordable, and way less dramatic. You can cut it, press it (gently), and even throw it in the wash depending on the blend. But don’t get too relaxed, it still has pile direction, stretch, and that same “slippery sandwich” problem when sewing seams.

Here’s what helps:

Check the nap direction. Run your hand along the fabric before cutting, decide if you want it darker (nap down) or shinier (nap up). Mark it.
Use a walking foot. It feeds both layers evenly so the fabric doesn’t crawl.
Light pressure on the presser foot. Too much and you’ll leave tracks on the surface.
Sew with a longer stitch length. Around 3mm to keep the pile from crushing.
Minimize handling. Don’t over-handle the fabric. And don’t pull the fabric when sewing.
Press lightly and from the back. Always test first; synthetic velvet can melt faster than you think. Keep an eye on the temperature.

Poly velvet is forgiving, especially if you’re sewing something structured, like a jacket or holiday dress. It gives you that “velvet effect” without the stress or the dry-cleaning bill.

Dropping the Velvet Curtain

Velvet rewards patience. It’s not the kind of fabric you rush to finish. Slow down, test your seams, and treat it like it’s expensive, even when it’s not. Whether you’re working with a slippery silk blend or a tough polyester version, the key is control: keep it from sliding, crushing, or stretching before you stitch.

And when in doubt, baste first, iron never, and keep a lint roller close.